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R-I-N-G-S ETC...Artistic Contemporary Jewels. by Barbara Uderzo
The
red apple that winks between the (fake) cream spread on a ring is not a
jewel for Snow White. At the most, it has something to do with science
fiction and the gelatinous and agglutinant pretentions of a shapeless essence
that gave its name to a cult movie of the late Fifties: “Blob Rings” is
in fact the name of a series of jewels made by designer Barbara Uderzo
from Vicenza (Italy). After attending the Academy of Fine Arts of Venice,
this designer decided to devote herself to the very hazardous and feminine
field of jewels. Its inventions, ideas that make the "bad stepmothers"
become jealous, as well as the standardized productions of a gold market
devoid of ironic emotions, act on imagination, which is not only pop, but
also meditated and delicate.
The circumferences of rings, surrounded by plastic
inserts, accommodate relics of daily life, from small Venetian glass animals
to very small bells and dolls' cups, stones and plumes; other ones depict
seraphic and serious reflections on the bony essences of our vertebras
or perhaps on those of lost dinosaurs, ideas that have given rise to “Deinos
Rings” since 1992.
As their name suggests, these "terrible" rings
have primitive organic shapes and remarkable dimensions, however, they
are very light thanks to the electroforming production technique with silver;
moreover, they do not limit the movements of the fingers.
"Snark Rings" are their mates; like the strange
creature in Lewis Carroll's book they have fluid and magmatic shapes but
they boast a yellow gold plating. They are cousins of the original "visual
crashes" of "Splash Rings", which count among them pendants and cutlery,
in unique or multiple pieces recalling a "splash of precious matter on
the body".
Barbara Uderzo is a graceful and dreamer Lady
of the Rings who also creates necklaces, like the "Rocky Chains", and who
knows her job very well. In fact, she has broadened her knowledge with
specific studies and practical experience in gold companies. Besides experimenting
in her atelier in Creazzo (Vicenza), where she lives surrounded by the
scarcely ferocious bestiary of her personal totems, in the shape of sculptures
of peaceful frogs, she teaches, cooperates with important sectoral galleries
such as V&V in Vienna and Marijke Studio in Padova and makes exhibitions
also abroad, from Austria through Hungary, Spain and Germany.
Her work is a serious game that creates a precious
amazement, one moment innocent, then worldly-wise, in a sort of work-in-progress
through the study of changing shapes, which always enclose a feeling. She
proceeds from a conceptual plan towards the manipulation of substances,
in order to discover the organicity and tactility of materials, to estimate
their relationship with the body, digressing into body art and pure art.
Such are her last productions, the candle-rings "Candy Candle Rings" in
that, if they turn out to be in part the inheritors of previous soft mountings
in sugar and real pralines, they have a core of wicks and a body of perfumed
wax that reveals the skeleton of a massive silver ring once they are burnt.
Without expecting the magic ring from her, even
the most eccentric of botanists will find an engagement ring in her collection:
"Succulent Rings" are a family of microsculptures in wood accommodating
small succulent plants, to wear or to place on a flat support. The only
care they need is to be watered because, in this case, the ring is "alive"!
Stefania Portinari